Discover Mondulkiri

Similar to Ratanakiri, Mondulkiri (Khmer: មណ្ឌលគិរី) also fascinates with its elephant reserves, indigenous peoples, primeval forests, waterfalls and unspoiled nature. One advantage: due to its more southerly location, Mondulkiri is quicker to reach from Phnom Penh.

At 14,288 km², Mondulkiri is Cambodia’s largest province. It is also the most sparsely populated. It is named after the numerous mountains and valleys: Mondul Kiri means “the center of the mountains”.

Sen Monorom: Provincial capital of Mondulkiri

Translated as “charming”, “wonderful”, “delightful”, Sen Monorom is also the largest city in the province with a population of just 14,000 (2019). The small town is often compared to frontier towns in the old American West.

The street scene includes tribesmen from the Bunong ethnic group, NGO employees, woodcutters and, increasingly, tourists. The development of the country is also noticeable in Sen Mororom. Land prices quadrupled between 2008 and 2010. Nevertheless, Sen Monorom is still considered a dream destination for nature lovers. Trekking tours in the surrounding mountains, with or without elephants, excursions to the ethnic minorities, visits to the waterfalls and wildlife watching promise unique experiences.

Ethnic minorities: The Bunong in Putang Village

The village of Putang is located in Romana Commune, about 9 km southwest of the Kouprey traffic circle in the center of Sen Monorom. Only a few hundred inhabitants, who belong to the Bunong (also known as Banong) ethnic group – one of 10 minorities in the province – live in this village. Alongside the Tompoun in Ratanakiri, the Bunong, who have been living in Cambodia for around 2,000 years, are one of the most widely represented indigenous tribes in the country.

Traditionally built from wood and bamboo, Bunong houses consist of one large room and have no windows. A special feature is the roof made of palm leaves, which in some cases reaches almost to the ground. The Bunong cultivate their traditional dances and perform them for visitors and guests. Each individual dance has a specific meaning. For example, they make wine according to their own recipes with a special fermentation process. They dance to ensure that the wine is always good so that many people can drink it. During a performance, however, it also happens that water is drunk from the calabashes (gourds) instead of wine.

Bunong and her elephants

The Bunong have coexisted with elephants for over 120 years. Known as elephant tamers, they worship the elephant spirit and regard it as sacred, just like the forest spirit. Looked after jointly by the indigenous village communities, the domesticated wild elephants are considered family members. The animals are of central importance in the lives of the Bunong and are used by them for transportation in the deep forest areas, among other things. Their meat is not allowed to be eaten. Breeding is also taboo for the Bunong. If there are unwanted offspring, sacrifices must be made for the entire village and elephants to prevent any misfortune.

Phnom DoKramom

The mountain DoKramom (also Doh Kromum) means “The breast mountain of the virtuous woman” – or something like that :-D The hill owes this imaginative name to its breast-shaped form. The Bunong people attribute divine powers to Phnom DoKramom. Every year they hold festivals there with traditional ceremonies. At the top of the mountain, there is a fantastic view of the vast and undulating hills. The Bunong have aptly named this unique panoramic view the “Forest Sea”.

Mondulkiri Naturschutzgebiete

A good 4,300 square meters of primeval forest in Mondulkiri are protected for wildlife. The region is often referred to as “the Serengeti of Asia”, a jewel of biodiversity. Elephants, leopards, lyre deer, Malayan bears, banteng (wild cattle), gibbons, ibises, to name but a few. The WWF is also working with the government to reintroduce tigers to the area.

• Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary: Designated in 2002, the sanctuary is located to the west of Mondulkiri and east of Kratie. With more than 950 recorded animal species, the area is of global importance.
• Phnom Prich Wildlife Sanctuary: Founded in 1993, the sanctuary is part of perhaps the largest protected area complex in Southeast Asia. The area borders the Mondulkiri Protected Forest to the north and the Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary presented in the first point to the south.
• Srepok Wildlife Sanctuary: The nature reserve is located east of the Phnom Prich Wildlife Sanctuary and is also part of the largest protected area complex in Southeast Asia.
• Snoul Wildlife Sanctuary: The nature reserve was originally located in eastern Cambodia on the border with Vietnam. It was dissolved by royal decree in 2018. The reason given was the destruction of habitats. The sanctuary also suffered from years of illegal logging and deforestation.
• Phnom Namlear Wildlife Sanctuary: The sanctuary is also located on the border with Vietnam. The area is just under 510 m² with altitudes between 320 and 1,070 km². This area is also threatened by illegal logging.

Experience elephants up close

Around 300 elephants are said to still live in the wild in Mondulkiri. In addition, there are various offers and projects that serve to protect the pachyderms. Trekking tours with elephants can be booked through almost every guesthouse. They are either hired directly from the Bunong or you can contact one of the local organizations.

Mondulkiri Project

Elephant Sanctuary & Jungle Treks: The program here includes hand-feeding elephants and swimming and bathing with them at the waterfall. Founded and registered in 2013 under the leadership of Mr. Tree, the organization protects the local population and nature. If you like, you can book a reasonably priced room (from USD 8) for your stay at the associated Tree Lodge.

• Tour offers: 50 USD for a day tour with elephants, 80 USD for 2 days – the program plus overnight stay in a jungle lodge with traditional food and rice wine
• Website with booking options: www.mondulkiriproject.org
• Facebook Page

Mondulkiri Elephant & Wildlife Sanctuary

In cooperation with the Local Environmental Awareness Foundation (LEAF), which was founded in 2015, the organization works to promote eco-tourism. This is done in particular through incentive projects in favor of nature conservation in rural Cambodia. The sanctuary works closely with endangered forest communities to create sustainable livelihoods.

• Tour offers: 30 USD for a trekking day to indigenous cultures including swimming in a waterfall pool and a visit to a Fldermaus cave, 50 USD for a day watching elephants in their natural environment.
• Website with booking options: www.mondulkirisanctuary.org
• Facebook Page

Elephant Valley Project (EVP)

11 elephants live in the Elephant Valley project. The Cambodian NGO founded by the Englishman Jack Highwood has set itself the task of improving their living conditions. Especially the animals that were used as working elephants.

The Elephat Valley project offers visitors an extensive program. These include half-day and full-day programs, as well as special offers for groups. The program also includes various retreats.

• Tourangebote: 60 USD für einen halben Tag mit Elefanten und einen halben Tag Volunteering, 95 USD für einen ganzen Tag, 3-Tages Tour ab 270 USD
• Website mit booking options: www.elephantvalleyproject.org
• Facebook Group

Elephant Community Development Program (ECDP)

The ECDP is based on a local initiative by the indigenous Bunong community. The aim is to preserve the local wildlife and population. The proceeds from the tours are used exclusively for community development programs (especially the two villages of Putang and Pou Long) and for the elephants.

• Tour offers: 40 USD for a one-day elephant adventure tour, 70 USD for a two-day tour with overnight stay in a homestay with hammock and campfire.
• Website with booking options: www.elephantscommunityproject.org
• Facebook Page

Yahoo Gibbon Camp

The Jahoo Gibbon Camp is located in the Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary (KSWS), in the heart of the nature reserve in the Seima Forest. Covering an area of around 2,000 km2, the KSWS works with several partners to conserve this vital habitat for endangered species.

• Tour offers: 110 USD for 2 days – in the program Ethical Elephant forest Sanctuary Visit and a day trekking tour in the Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary, 130 USD for a 2-day trekking tour incl. overnight stay in a community homestay.
• Website with booking options: www.trekking-cambodia.com
• Facebook Page

Preah Mias – the gold mining village

People come to this place from all over Cambodia to search for gold. Although it is only 40 km from Sen Monorom, the journey is difficult and can only be managed by moped, jeep or similar. Over time, a kind of village has formed around the gold digging site, a hole in the center of the action.

Coffee Plantation Resort

The Coffee Plantation Resort is located directly on the main road (no. 76) in the north of Sen Somorom. In addition to coffee, pepper, pineapple, durian and other fruits are also grown there. If you want to buy the tasty Mondulkiri coffee directly from the producer, this is the place for you.

Waterfalls

• Bousra Waterfall: The most popular waterfall in the region, approx. 40 km north-east of Sen Monorom at the foot of Doh Kramon Mountain. 2 cascades 15m and 25m wide and 10 and 20m high.
• Leng Ong and Leng Khin waterfalls: Officially, the two waterfalls are the shortest and the highest. In the dry season, Leng Ong measures less than 1m, while Leng Khin measures 25m in the dry season and 28m in the rainy season. The curious thing is that both waterfalls are only 300m apart. They are located about 26km south of Sen Monorom in the village of Pou Vam in O’reang district.
• Other waterfalls: Romanea I and II, Sen Monorom Waterfall and Dak-Dam

Tip: Enquire about the cleanliness of the water in the waterfall pools beforehand. Especially those located near Sen Monorom.

Hotels & Guesthouses

Affordable

The Tree Lodge is a comparatively simple but affordable accommodation in Sen Monorom. Practical: The Mondulkiri Project with its Elephant Sanctuary & Jungle Treks is under the same management. Price from approx. 8 USD per night.

Medium price range

Rüdiger swears by the Ayana Kandara Boutique Hotel, about 6 km south of Sen Monorom. The view of the forest-sea is magical, he says. Pure peace and nature. The way there is adventurous. It looks like it is under new management. There are now small round white cottages that he had never seen before. Price from approx. 30 USD for an overnight stay.

Photos: Rüdiger Brill

Premium price range

The Mayura Hill Resort is recommended for upmarket guests. The accommodation is located just a short distance south of the center of the capital Sen Monorom. The rooms are designed as small villas. Price from approx. 100 USD per night.

Food & drink

Cinnamon Cafe and Bakery (in the former Café Phka): Probably by far the culinary hotspot on Sen Monorom Street in the provincial capital of the same name. Many people rave about the best cakes in the whole of Asia at this place of cravings. Swedish cinnamon buns, lime meringue cake – anything but Cambodian, but baked with a lot of heart and love.

Manuela tells us that the owner and her husband are devout Christians – a rarity among Cambodians. They sell small wooden crosses as key rings. The sink in the restaurant has a mirror, because it is actually their home. The same goes for the terrace with its tables, chairs and hanging calabash decorations. The kitchen is also the living room. Unfortunately we don’t have a cake photo (yet) ;-)

Hefalump Cafe: The popular restaurant is unfortunately closed due to the coronavirus. You can read on the Facebook page that it may reopen at another location.

Healthcare

As Mondulkiri, like Ratanakiri, is considered a malaria area, it is important to think about mosquito protection. Long pants and long-sleeved shirts or shirts as well as sturdy shoes are an absolute must, especially on trekking tours, in order to protect your health.

There are also still landmines. Stay on the paths and follow the instructions of the tour guide, especially on trekking tours.

Journey to Mondulkiri

It takes a good 6 hours to get from Phnom Penh to Mondulkiri in the capital Sen Monorom, 350 km away. You can ask for a private minivan at your hotel. Alternatively, you can choose the cheaper option and buy a connection directly online via BookMeBus.

An overview with options from various starting points such as Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Kratie etc. can be found at Mondulkiri Project.

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